For the past three weeks and nearly 900 km I have been following the Rhine and the river has shown me some of its many faces. All the branches at its delta in the Netherlands, where between polders and dykes it was hard for me to recognise it as a river and the very industrial section that followed. The section between Bon and Mainz was a box of surprises with its steep wooded banks and castles and pointed church spires in every turn and with it’s legends of fair maidens being betrayed and seeking revenge and greedy Bishops being punished.
Germany is a cyclist’s dream. Wonderful cycle paths take you away from the traffic, following the many turns of the Rhine, crossing through fields of yellow wheat moving in the wind like waves , entering cool woodlands where the sunlight filtering through the leaves is magical, meandering through quiet streets where people go about their lives. And I’m soaking it all in.
I am slowly relaxing into the rithm of the road. I have even managed a couple of siestas, on very hot days. It is great to be able to do exactly as you please like the Sunday when I was attracted by the sound of church bells in a beautiful village called Eltville. I followed the sound and ambling through the village found myself in a beautiful walled garden in full bloom. That evening I had a delicious glass of Riesling, perfect end for the day
I’m now in Strasbourg . My first big milestone reached, I am ready to leave the Rhine and through the Black Forest seek the source of the Danube that will take me towards the Black Sea and another continent.