Namibia

I was in Namibia twice. The first one was after Zambia when I cycled the Caprivi Strip between the 17 of November 2018 and 23 november 2018. The second time I entered from South Africa and was there between the 27 of March 2019 and the 18 of May 2029. The information and prices were correct at the time of writing

For daily distances and a brief description of each day follow this link

All prices are in Namibian dollars but everywhere in the country they accept South African Rand. You may even get change in the shops on notes from the ATMs in rands. When the charge was in USD it is specified

When I was there the exchange rate was as follows:

1 GBP = 18. 57 NAD
1 USD = 14. 38 NAD
1 EUR = 16. 04 NAD

Visa
I got my visa on arrival at both borders very easily.

Spanish passport holders get free entry visa for 3 months.

Entering the country
Entering the country was quick and very straight forward.

Money
I had no problem finding ATMs in Namibia and they didn’t charge me commission with my visa or mastercard. Also, most places accept both Visa and Mastercard.

Namibia, SIM card
I got MTC. Straight forward at one of their offices. You need to take your passport. I paid 10.5 NAD for the SIM and 290 NAD FOR 1.5 GB of data. Coverage was very patchy and sometimes non existent.

Food and drink
There are a whole selection of supermarkets in towns where you can find pretty much everything. What you can’t find is stalls by the side of the road selling produce.

There is drinking water pretty much anywhere where there is people. I didn’t buy any drinking water or used my filters. On the road I relied on tourists (there were many on my route), when I was low on water I waved the empty bottles and never had problems getting enough. Keep an eye on the pattern of traffic and make sure you fill up before it dies down.

On the Road
There are not very many tarred roads in Namibia. Some of the most frequented roads can be in a terrible state unless the graters have been recently. I struggled with corrugations and loose sand and gravel and a couple of times accepted lifts. Also don’t expect cars to slow down as they see you. A buff covering your mouth is useful as you’ll get a shower of dust each time a car passes by. The worse are the overlanding trucks! On the tarred roads cars go really fast so make allowances and be prepared to come off the road if necessary.

Personal Safety
Please note what follows is the personal experience of one individual and it does not intend to provide any authoritative account with regards to safety in the coutry or account to recommendation to travel there. We are all different, our attitude to risk and our perception of safety is different too.

Always check your government’s travel advice for Namibia before making your decision.

As a solo older female I never felt unsafe during my time in Namibia even in remote places. I got pickpocketed in Swakopmund and later met another traveller also robbed there so be particularly careful whilst there.

Wildcamping is easy in Namibia where there are long distances between populations. A farmer gave me some advice: don’t camp underneath trees with big weaver nests as snakes, often go there searching for eggs and chicks and could fall on top of the tent and don’t camp under trees that don’t have animal droppings as it is highly likely there will be ticks there. Also be careful in the canyons as there could be leopards.

Accommodation
Caprivi Strip
Karima Mulilo – Zambezi River Lodge – Lovely grass to pitch your tent – nice clean  toilet/shower – beautiful view of the river from campsite – they take credit cards – 140 pppn – The security guards where concerned about my bike so took it to main reception overnight

Kongola – I camped at the Police Station where there was a tap to wash and drink. They let me use a toilet

Omega – I camped at the Police Station – Extremely friendly. Gave me cold water!!!! Have a spot for cyclists with a tap and toilets where you can wash

Bagani – Nunda Safari Lodge – A fabulous campsite, the pitches by the water don’t have grass but the view is fantastic. Pitch 7 is particularly nice. Price is 130 but they charged me 100 without asking for a reduction. it is 1.4 km from the road and there is not too much sand. The people who run it  are great. if you are going to self cater bring everything you need. I was able to use the bar fridge. No kitchen available. WIFI. Drinking water tap. They are happy to put your bottles in the freezer. Pitches have electricity and water tap.

After South Africa
Aussenkehr – Noretshama River Resort – 170 pppn. Great Campsite and restaurant with good food. 110 a big main course. Fast free WIFI – swimming pool clean showers and toilets. Far from shops (8 km)

Ai Ais – Ai Ais hot springs – Nice campsite with cookers in the campers kitchen. Shade – Hot showers – no WIFI. 210 pppn

Hobas – Hobas Campsite on sand. Free when I was there because there had been a flood and the systems didn’t work. Hot water in the shower. You need to pay entry to the National Park which was 80 when I was there.

Canon Yard Farm Yard – Canyon Yard Farm – Campsite on sand 130 pppn – no WIFI – Hot water with a donkey boiler. No WIFI and no phone reception.

Seeheim – Seeheim hotel – Camping on grass but no shade. 160 pppn. No hot water in the shower when I was there – WIFI

Alte Kalkoefen Lodge – Alte Kalkoefen Lodge – Very quirky – Shower and toilet in metal shack big enough to fit the bike and the sleeping mat so didn’t set the tent. Very expensive 210. No power points at the hut but they’ll charge your devices at reception. Also decent WIFI at the restaurant

Bethanie – Bethanie Guesthouse Nice campsite  – 150pppn. Good WIFI and Shop

Nr Helmeringhausen -Goais Campsite – 100pppn in this nice campsite which is more like wild camping but with hot water with a donkey boiler. No power points – No phone reception – no WIFI – The nicest of owners. Shop in Helmeringhausen

Barby Farm – Barby Farm Campsite – The farmer let me stay in one of the chalets for 120. Very comfortable. Hot water with donkey boiler – no WIFI – no phone reception

Beta – Beta Camp An oasis in the middle of nowhere. Has a shop. 120 pppn (advertised 130 – I wondered whether they charged me pensioner rate!?) No WIFI – no phone reception. Electricity and drinking water.

Sesriem – Oasis Camp -It gets really booked up. It has “private”” plots with their own toilet or a section with shared bathrooms for 150pppn. Water tap, electricity point. WIFI at the garage where there is a shop. There is an expensive lodge up the road with free  WIFI

Nr Agama River Camp – Invited by the good samaritans that picked me up on the road. Beautiful place.

Solitaire – Solitaire Country Lodge Askedfor 200 but negotiated to 100. The water was cold in the shower – WIFI in reception. Shop next door and bakery with lovely apple pie.

Gaub Pass – Wildcamping – nothing available

Aruvlei – Aruvlei Campsite – Concrete table and stools and drop toilet and shade of trees. Wildcamping really – No one around. No water or electricity.

69 km from Walvisbaai – wildcaping in the desert

Walvisbaai – Stayed with friends

Swakopmund – Salty Jackal – Great place. 170pppn in the dorm. Fully equipped kitchen and fast WIFI

Hentiesbaai – Lukzet Accommodation – 300 for a double room with ensuite. Hot water and WIFI in the bar. Comfortable. Shared sitting room with kettle, toaster and a hot plate.

56 km from Uis – wildcamping in the desert

Uis – White Lady b&b Clean campsite. Special price for cyclists  100pppn instead of 160pppn. The restaurant at the campsite next door is quite reasonable, big meals for under 100

Ugab – Camped by the Urgab shop Drinking water and shop
Madisa Camp – Madisa camp 160 but negotiated to 100. Nice site with pool in  nice location

Aabadi Mountain Camp – Aabad mountain camp 180 negotiated to 100. Compared with the facilities at Madisa is a basic campsite but nice location, cold drinks and nice sofas to chill.

Camp Xaragu – Camp Xaragu – 240pppn negotiated down to 160pppn. Expensive place but OK for one night. Clean toilet and shower. Drinking water. Electricity only when they switch on the generator. The fridge works with gaz so cold drinks always at the same price as everywhere else around.

Bergsig – Camped at the Health Centre Drinking water. Bergsig has 3 shops but limited stock

Palmwag – Camping Vet check point Shower and drinking water

Khowarib – Campsite Khowarib Lodge OK campsite. The Pitches closer to the river have shade. See Ioverlander. Warmaquelle has a shop

Opuwo – ABBA Guesthouse Clean and comfortable. Fast WIFI. Supermarkets in town. Price negotiable

Omakange – Cascade Bar – Pretty basic. Negotiated to 150 for double room.Outdoor bucket shower and dropped toilets. Drinking water tap. Socket in room

Okahao – Onesto Guesthouse 300 for a single room. Tiny bathroom. AC

Ongwediwa – Seven Valleys Spotless room 400 with bfast. AC and WIFI. Camping is 100. New mall across the road.

Oshakati – Piscas Motel – 300 for overlanders. Big room with bathroom and AC. WIFI