I was in Zambia between the 14 of October 2018 and 16 November 2018. The information and prices were correct at the time of writing

For daily distances and a brief description of each day follow this link

All prices are in Zambian kwacha except when the charge was in USD.

When I was there the exchange rate was as follows:
1 GBP = 15.28 ZMW1
1 USD = 11.93 ZMW
1 EUR = 13.74 ZMW

I got my visa on arrival at the border near Chipata.

Once you fill in a form you pay 50 USD to the customs officer.

Entering the country
Entering the country was quick and very straight forward.

There are plenty of ATMs in Chipata. Shop around as some charge commission.

Also it was possible to pay in some of the Lodges/Campsites with VISA.

Zambia SIM card
I got MTN and paid 50 ZMW for 1.5Gb for one month and 15 ZMW for the card. Coverage was adequate.

Food and drink
Other than in towns where there are supermarkets and a bit more to choose from, there was not much on the road when I was there.

If you are self catering you will find tomatoes and onions in most places and peanut butter in most shops

Sodas 15 ZMW. There are bore hole pumps in most villages so I didn’t buy any water.

On the Road
I found Zambia roads to be generally OK and other traffic reasonable but like in other countries in the continent you need to be aware of the hierarchy of the road and be ready to get out of the way of any vehicle bigger than you, including motorbikes.

Personal Safety
Please note what follows is the personal experience of one individual and it does not intend to provide any authoritative account with regards to safety in the coutry or account to recommendation to travel there. We are all different, our attitude to risk and our perception of safety is different too.

Always check your government’s travel advice for Zambia before making your decision.

As a solo older female I never felt unsafe during my time in Zambia even in remote places. I found people to be really warm, welcoming and friendly. Children will spot you at a distance, scream azungu and run to the road to see  you go past and ask for sweets.

Tse tse flies attacked us when on the Old Petauke Road and we had to wear head nets.

I have listed where I spent the night at each location and the cost. For the exact coordinates check here.

Village 52 Km from the border – Camped in the village chief’s compound – Water pump nearby – latrine

Mfuwe – Croc Valley Park – Comfortable campsite with beautiful views over the river.Hippos and elephants come to visit. Beware of the vervet monkeys – they are thieves. 12 USD pppn -Fully equipped comunal kitchen – hot water – swimming pool – keep your valuables in a safe place, things go missing.

Nyamaluma College on the old Petauke Road. Camped at the college. Friendly locals. They escorted us to a nearby bore hole to fetch water. Depending on how much you’re getting it may be worth it taking a bike. They opened a toilet and bathroom for us and turned the water pump but the common shower in the compound is perfecty ok

Masenga – Camped in the village headman yard who was very friendly. They fetched two jerrycans of water from the bore hole for us. Latrine and ‘African bathroom’

Chilembwe – Camped by the muslim school and the bore hole. Friendly teacher and headman. Latrine and ‘African bathroom’ A lot of attention from children.

Petauke -Eriboma Executive Lodge 300 kawcha for a double room incuding bfast. WIFI – hot water didn’t work and there was a problem with ants but the staff were very helpful. Restaurant was ok

Nyimba – CampingTaitana Lodge 50 kawcha pppn – camping in nice grass under trees – bar with cold drinks and local prices – toilet and shower room basic with cold water

Kacholola – 50 kwacha pppn for camping. Basic toilet and shower with cold water. Bar with cold drinks and local prices. Nice local food reasonably price. Market ad shops nearby.

Luangwa – Kent Guesthouse – 60 kwacha for a very basic double room. Drop toilet and bucket shower room but had to ask for water several times. There seem to be quite a lot of night time activity! Food and drinks at local prices a few metres, up the road.

Rufunsa – Kalunde Bar and Grill – Friendly, we were able to camp gor free. They opened a shower room for us. Drop toilet. Shop and cold drinks. See iOverlander for other reviews.

Shingela – Local Health Centre Very friendly. Let us camp for free. Water pump on solar system so only works during the day but the health worker in charge gave us water. Drop toilet. Restaurant in the village

Chongwe – Lay by Guesthouse – 200 kawcha for a 2 bedded room en suite with bfast (peanut butter and bread). Clean – Cold water – construction still going on – bar with cold drinks and local prices – no restaurant yet but extremely helpful owner organized dinner for us.

Lusaka – Stayed at friends

Choma – Choma Hotel – 250 kawcha for a double room (could sleep 3).ensuite -hot water -AC -fridge -clean and comfortable. Bfast included – Indian Restaurant in hotel

Kalomo –  Guesthouse – 100 kawcha for a simple room with ‘ensuite’ (a pipe) but lovely – friendly landlady and nice patio to cook

Zimba – Pengaujane Guesthouse – 100pppn -part of a mission – super clean – hot water – fabulous kitchen – cheap soft drinks. One of the best places I’ve stayed at. Bore hole water

Livingstone – Fawlty Towers great hostel – 8 USD pppn in the dorm. Swimming pool – WIFI – hot water – free crepes at 3pm – free transport to the falls – bore hole water.